3. Karba, Bangala, Beejay Dhar

(Continued from part 2)

After the Independence Day celebration in Kalap we had our “brunch” and started our trek to Bangla. This was a long and partly rainy day. But the trek was relatively simple. We walked for about 4-5 hours and covered 6 km. The downward slope from Karba top was very steep and slushy. Overall, all the treks were filled with ups and downs. I used to feel good when I was going upwards, but within a matter of an hour, there would be another valley or stream to cross! Although we were gaining height mostly it was never a continuous climb. The water of these streams was sparkling clean and it used to be a treat to drink this “mineral” water. I am happy that I managed this complete trip without purchasing packaged water. In fact, even in flights and road journeys, I managed with water-filled from hotels and streams. Anand has managed to get a water filter for camps. Luckily, there was no stomach infection at any point. 

We spent three nights in sleeping bags and tents. One at Bangala Bugyals (9500 ft) and two nights at Beejay Dhar (12000 ft). We slept in comfortable sleeping bags however, after the first night I had the fear of answering nature’s call in the middle of the night. Due to my age, I could never wait until the morning. All three nights it was raining incessantly and going till the toilet tent (which itself was a bliss!) used to be a challenge. By the third night, I had mastered the technique of getting out of the sleeping back, wearing trekking shoes and raincoat, holding an umbrella, torch, and walking stick.

The people in the mountains eat two big meals a day. Our brunch used to be at around 10 am just before setting off on the trek and we used to eat dinner in the evening. It seemed difficult on the first day when we did not get a lunch but soon I started eating dry fruits and bhel etc on the way. And most importantly, not eating a heavy lunch helped in keeping the pace. Each morning, I used to feel that we should start our journey early and reach early. This feeling is a result of my years of working in a school. Until a couple of months ago I was getting up at 5 am and was leaving the house at 7:10 am. It took me a few days to understand that it is alright to just go with the flow of Anand’s plan and enjoy the beauty of nature rather than trying to get ready early in the morning. Packing wet clothes and other stuff each morning was a big challenge. Though my backpack was just 8 kg, I felt there was too much stuff. I have to learn to minimize it further.

Bangala to Beejay Dhar had a few steep climbs where the paths were not very clear. But our team of Anand, Rajmohan, Gyan Singh and Mohan Singh were very helpful in guiding and giving a hand. They would give a lot of confidence and hope. However, their estimates of the duration of the walk were almost always on the lower side.

In this last phase, we went primal forests of deodar, pine, fir, rhododendron, fern. Some places had extremely dense canopies and large tree trunks. Colorful mushrooms were found everywhere. We witnessed a good play of rain and shine. We saw beautiful rainbows in several spots. At one spot close to Beejay Dhar there was a plateau where we saw a breathtaking view of green and silvery slopes and the mystical Swargarohini peak. Every minute the colors of the mountains would alter. When you are clicking something in one direction, you would miss something amazing behind you!

After reaching Beejay dhar(12000 ft) we all felt great but the rest day turned out to be rainy and we could not really walk ahead to the Bugyals. We waited for the sun to show up but sadly, it literally poured one whole night and day. It felt like doomsday. In the evening, the rain stopped for a while but white clouds kept floating around. At midnight, it felt as if we were the only people left on the earth, and any minute we too could be washed away. As if nature was teaching us a lesson, that we were helpless!

On the next day at Beejay, we were lucky to get sunshine early morning. Everyone got up and clicked pictures frantically as if the Sun was going to vanish again. We started our return journey to Karba. It was a long 5-6 hours walk (11.5 km). Although Gauri Dakhane was in pain she managed it very well.

I reached Karba with Anand and Anshu very early. After that, Anshu went back to Kalap the same evening and I walked down to Rajmohan’s Chhani. Many people in the mountains maintain two houses. One at a lower height where the families live during winter and kids study. This is like their head office. They have their farms on higher slopes and shepherds go to even higher places in the summer. The “branch office” at a higher altitude is called a “Chhani” which in my opinion means “Chhavani” or cantonment. Rajmohan’s father welcomed us and he had prepared bhel and chai for us. The old man plucked arbi ke patte from his yard and prepared a tasty meal on a wood fire. 
I sat down on the deck was admiring the vast mountain ranges ahead. Suddenly, I heard a few kids calling me from across the valley. They were inviting me to their house but I was too tired. So they came running across the rocks to see me. They had very cheerful, innocent faces.

That evening was remarkable because I could speak to my in-laws and convey that I am doing fine. Secondly, as the darkness was gripping the mountains, stars started twinkling beautifully. I sat alone on the deck as the others too tired and were sitting in the kitchen. I sat facing the eastern sky and kept staring at the full moon shining. It was certainly the most magical, stunning moon that I have ever witnessed. I can’t remember how long I sat there. In Beejay, I was longing so much to see the moon. My prayers were answered in Karba! The whole sky was brightened up with moonlight.

Epilogue

The whole experience of trekking through unknown terrains and with unknown people gave me a lot of confidence and courage. My worries and anxieties went away to some extent. At least, I learnt to catch the fears as they came to my mind.  I realized that when worries start bothering me, I should focus on the next step and take deep breaths. I learnt to balance my mind and body. The simple lives of mountain people and their state of contentment in meager earnings was a big lesson. Perhaps, I gave a lot of tension to my husband and my in-laws who were back in Mumbai. I am immensely grateful to them for allowing me to go. Many thanks to nomad friends from Mumbai and Kalap who made this trip possible!

Video: Kalap Kaleidoscope

THE NOMAD TRAIL ITINERARYAug 12

Arrive at Dehradun. Stayed at Renee's guesthouse

Aug 13

drive to Purola (140 kms, 5 hours)

Aug 14

After early breakfast, short drive Netwar. Trek to Kalap began (11 kms/5-7 hours summer)

Reached Kalap (7,800 ft) by levening. 

Accommodation: Stayed overnight in the village with families in traditional Garhwali wooden homes. 

Aug 15

Trek to Bangla Bugyal after flag hoisting (6 kms, 3-4 hours, 9,500 ft). 

Accommodation: Camped overnight in tents 

Aug 16

Start early on the hike upwards to the magical bugyals (7 kms, 6-7 hours, upwards of 12,000 ft). T

Accommodation: Camped overnight in tents

Aug 17

Rest day at Beejay Dhar (12000 ft)

Accommodation: Camp overnight in tents

Aug 18

Climbed down to Karba, (5 hours, 11.5 kms). 

Accommodation: Stayed overnight in the village with families in traditional Garhwali wooden home.

Aug 19

Climb down to Kalap (2 hours, 3.5 kms) 

Spent time with kids in Kalap.

Accommodation: Stay overnight in the village with families in traditional Garhwali wooden homes. 

Aug 20

Climbed down to Netwar (11kms, 4 hours). Transfer to Dehradun guest house