Bangkok to Amazing Ayutthaya

Story of our backpacking trip to Thailand (part 2 of 3)

(Continued from Bangalore-Bangkok)

Not having a fixed travel plan can be good at times. You can take your own time to look around and explore. On 4th March we woke up quite early. The check-out time was 12 pm and we thought of making good use of it.  We decided to spend some time in Bangkok and leave the city in the afternoon towards Ayutthaya as the check-in there was going to be only after 3 pm.  We took the metro and went to the beautiful Sanam Chai station.  The station has beautifully decorated columns and motif to match the Grand Palace nearby. I wanted to see the Wat Pho and the Grand Palace.  We walked towards the palace and temple complex but it was too early. The roads were wide and clean. The walls of the palace were bright white, maroon and the golden ornamentation glistened in the morning sun.

Beautiful temple

Reclining Buddha

Due to the COVID-19 scare, there were very few people and shops were yet to be opened. We found a European styled coffee shop near the entrance of Wat Pho, and entered in to have breakfast. After a fulfilling breakfast, we entered the temple complex. Wat Pho was built by King Rama(I) and had a golden statue of reclining Buddha. The statue is 46 m long and the feet are 5 m long. The reclining position of Buddha depicts Buddha just before the parinirvana. The designs on the feet of Buddha were exquisitely carved. The entire complex had brightly colored obelisks and well-maintained bonsai trees. We sat in a temple where monks were chanting in a deep voice.

Painting depicting a scene from Ramakien Grand Palace 

Masked Gauri basking in the Sun

Grand Palace

The temple of Emerald Buddha in the Grand Palace was closed that day but we visited it on our return from Ayutthaya. The Ramakien art there was very beautiful. Painted in shiny golden colors on deep maroon background, it showed various stories in detail. The temple has a very small statue of Buddha made with emerald and studded with golden ornaments. I could not really appreciate this temple as I felt it was completely opposite of what Buddha’s teachings were. The artwork and architecture were astounding, but it appeared too extravagant.

After visiting Wat Pho we returned to the hotel Manhattan and checked out. We decided to go to Bang Sue station by train. Actually, there was another larger station called Bangkok Central (Hua Lamphong ) where we could have got a train to Ayutthaya. However, by the grace of Google we landed at Bang Sue. This was a relatively low-key station with a platform at the level of the tracks and people were crossing it constantly. There were no bridges or underground pathways to cross the tracks. The train journey was going to be around a couple of hours. We were not sure how crowded it would be as we had not really reserved seats. There were no good restaurants around and there is a large terminus being built on one side of the station. The man at the inquiry window guided us properly and we purchased two tickets for just 40 Bahts! The platform had many interesting vendors. There were barbers in an open area. Men and women were getting hair-cuts done before going back to their villages (or before entering Bangkok). There were small eateries selling noodles, stir-fried veggies, and chicken, sticky rice, cut mangoes. At Bang Sue station we had a cheap meal of rice, stew, and noodles from an old lady and her daughter. 

 At many food stalls, it was lovely to see families working together- the younger generation adept at talking to customers and maintaining the transactions and older women cooking awesome food. One discovery in the last two days of travel was the sticky, sweet rice which was omnipresent on the streets of Bangkok. It was really tasty with cut mango, jackfruit, and sweet coconut milk. Initially, we were unsure how to eat it as it was being kept next to meat dishes and were a bit scared to try the tiny packets of rice sold roadside. But later, throughout this journey, we ate street food many times but there were no stomach problems.  The only care we took was washing or sanitizing hands, wearing masks, and eating freshly cooked hot meals. We carried our water bottles and filled up where it appeared clean. Or relied on water-filled from the taps in the hotels.

The train arrived at the right time and policemen ensured that no one crossed the tracks when it was about to arrive. I was not sure, which coach to board however, the policeman saw my ticket and showed us where to board. The train had an old look but was reasonably clean. It was a general compartment but was not crowded. Several hawkers were walking up and down the aisle. They sold water, lemonade, sticky rice, boiled eggs, cut fruits, chips, etc. Many of them were old women. There was a poor, toothless, old man sitting next to me, he purchased 4 boiled eggs and ate one after another. Remarkably, he removed the shells with his shaky hands and carefully placed them into a polythene bag without littering! That must have been his lunch. After passing the station for Don Muong Airport the cityscape changed into fields and sparsely spaced houses. Another grandpa was carrying a three-year-old girl who was playing around and chatting with him sweetly. A European lady and her boyfriend appeared to be going to Ayutthaya. I pretended reading but it was more fun watching the hawkers and other passengers.

We reached Ayutthaya around 3 pm. It was a bright and hot day. We found a tuk-tuk and luckily, we were able to explain to the driver where we wanted to go. Hotel Niwas Ayutthaya was a small villa turned into a hotel. Manager Bob welcomed us near the entrance and showed us our room. It was a tiny room in the driveway with a personal washroom that was outside. We were fine with it. He gave us maps and explained a few destinations around.

Read the further story Amazing Ayutthaya

Bangalore-Bangkok (Via Hat Yai)

Story of our backpacking trip to Thailand (part 1 of 3)

Who knew that the world would come to a grinding halt when we were all set to take-off from Bangalore to Bangkok on the night of 29^th February 2020? Visa, tickets, hotel bookings- everything done carefully. There were uncertainties about the whole plan. To go or not to go during coronavirus outbreak was the question at the back of our minds! It wasn’t termed as a pandemic yet and Thailand wasn’t under threat.  However, in the morning we received an email from Wat Marp Jan- the monastery where we were going to spend two nights saying that they were closing it for foreigners. The news of deaths in Wuhan was scary. Vinay and I kept changing our opinions and plans. I had not even packed my bags until that morning. At one point, we decided to just GO! Here is a story of the memorable journey Bangalore-Bangkok-Bangalore (Bang-Bang-Bang)!

At the Bangalore airport, we finished the formalities and waited. There were very few honeymooners and some Thai businessmen going back to Bangkok.  A newly-wed young lady was all set to do a lot of shopping in Bangkok and I was thinking about our alternate plans. We were relaxed in a way as we were not going to stay much in the city where the virus was likely to hit soon. The flight was relatively empty. This was the first time I was carrying all my stuff in a single back-pack that was not going to be checked in. Just about 6 kg overall.  This is in itself was an adventure because there was a chance that we could have been stuck or held up somewhere. We reached Don Muong airport early morning. We were welcomed by thermal screening and hand sanitizers. The immigration officers appeared a bit arrogant and worked up as their night shift was about to get over. We were unable to understand their instructions given through the tightly fitted masks. Perhaps they were upset to see jobless tourists like us who could be potential carriers of the virus.

The Thai Lion flight to Hat Yai in southern Thailand was after a couple of hours. I was a bit skeptical about eating at the airport but we were hungry as we did not eat anything on the flight. Freshly baked puffs with spinach and cheese with Cappucino was made us fresh. The stories of the outbreak were trickling on the TV screens and people appeared to be stressed. We sat quietly near the gate without much discussion.

Serenity at Stream Garden

At the Hat Yai airport, we got a cab that was pre-booked and we were on the way to Chestnut Hill Eco Resort that was formerly Stream Garden Retreat. It was started by Pook in 1996 who has been studying and living J. Krishnamurti’s teachings.  The eco-resort is situated above a stream with low-mountain ranges on either side, decorated with rubber trees. It is being managed by Pook’s daughter, Soonya and son-in-law Adam. We could not meet Pook and Soonya as they were busy at a workshop in Bangkok. Adam was a wonderful host and our interpreter. However, we had the opportunity to meet Ajan Chamras a monk and former professor of psychology.  Ajan showed us the campus with great love. 

A view from the meditation hall

This place is around 50 km from the Malaysia border and is a very quiet sleepy town with hardly any buildings taller than two floors. The resort is on a hillock and there are beautiful cottages with patios that give you breathtaking views of the mountains. There are steps to reach the stream and markings for trekkers.  The same evening, we had an opportunity to have an interview with Ajan Chamaras about his Krishnamurti’s teachings, Taoism, and awareness meditation. The dialogue with him gave me a feeling of great peace and energy that set the stage for our journey.

Ajan Chamaras showing us around

We stayed there the next two days and walked through the forest trails, went down to the stream. It used to be a bit warm and sultry in the rain forest near the stream. However, in our cottage it used to be windy. There was a magical song of the stream and calls of birds. At night there were strange sounds of frogs and owls. You can hear the frog crock in the background of the interview recording. During the day, I could just lie around on the wooden deck or in the hammock looking at the leaves and clouds. Apart from the timings for meals, there was no schedule to follow. It was a perfect retreat. The meditation room was close to our cottage. There was no idol or photograph there, it just had bright sun rays that filled it with energy.

The food consisted of Thai curries, stew, rice, and noodles made with fresh organic vegetables. The staff mainly consisted of local women who would start their day early morning. They would ride a motorcycle and move about the large campus. They wore simple white cotton tops and light brown harem pants with very little make-up. They appeared to carry out the chores cheerfully smiling and chatting among themselves. Although there were language barriers, they managed to understand our needs and served us delicious dishes.

Sitting at a bench in the veranda 

Trekking along the stream

 As mentioned before, our plans for visiting Wat Marp Jan had to be canceled. We now had to spend the 3 days somewhere else. From Hat Yai, we were supposed to go to Bangkok and from Bangkok to Wat Marp Jan. We could have stayed in Bangkok but we were not so keen to spend the rest of the week in a city. We wanted to see the city but one or two days were enough for that! If we extended the stay in Chestnut Hill, our flight ticket from Hat Yai to Bangkok would go waste. Friends had suggested Chiang Mai, however; it was not a good idea given the chances of virus spread in a touristy place such as Chiang Mai. 

In the meditation cell

After careful thought, we decided to go to Bangkok and to travel to Ayutthaya by train. There was no problem reserving a hotel called "Niwas" in Ayutthaya. It is an old city of temples and not many youngsters would go there or even if they wanted to visit, they may do a day trip from Bangkok. So, there was less likelihood of an outbreak. We weren’t sure if the places were going close down in the next few days. The number of infections was around 43 in Thailand and there had been just one death at that time.

Ayutthaya is considered to be a precursor of modern Thailand. It must have been a happening place between 14^th to 18^th century. The name has a resemblance to Ayodhya in India and the Thai people like their epic Ramakien which is a story parallel to Ramayana but unique in its own way. The stories of Ramakien form a source of literature and theatre in Thailand. 

Thailand has an interesting blend of Buddhism and idol worshiping Hinduism. On the streets, in front of buildings, you will often find statues of Ganesha, Shiva, Rama. You will see them garlanded and with offerings of soft drinks kept at the feet! I had kept such an idol in mind so that I would not miss the street.

I was interested in checking out this place rather than going to Phuket or staying back in Bangkok. Ayutthaya seemed to be a quiet destination that would be suitable for our taste.  We left Hat Yai on 3^rd March by Thai Smile flight. At Hat Yai airport, there was a noodle shop and a plump, young lady with bright red lipstick was advertising about her noodles with great passion. We could not resist the temptation to have a big bowl of noodle soup and momos. The food was delicious!

To our surprise, we got a free light dinner pack in the flight that had very tasty roasted chicken with sticky rice. This time we landed at Bangkok Suvarnabhumi airport. This was a much bigger airport than Don Muong.  We took the metro to our hotel Manhattan that was booked for that night. While going by metro, I recalled my son's solo visit to this city and his winning of a guitar competition here six years ago when he was all of 16. The stations looked familiar as I had remote-guided him on that whole journey. I called him and gave him my whereabouts! 

During our flight and metro journey, we both were watching around the situation and made a sketchy plan for the next few days but we were not really clear about the next day as we entered our posh room in Hotel Manhattan late that night. Situated in the concrete jungle of Bangkok's Sukhumvit area very close to the huge mall Terminal 21, this hotel was a complete contrast to Chestnut Hill Eco Resort. 

A landmark to the hotel street 

To be continued in Bangkok and Amazing Ayutthaya

Lucky dip in Lakshadweep

Deep blue sea was a fascination for me ever since my childhood when I used to visit Alibag- my native town. The beaches in Mumbai were rather commercial but Arabian sea in Alibag was pristine and walking to the Colaba Fort during low tide used to be an adventure during every vacation. During my teens, I was smitten by Jules Verne’s 20000 Leagues Under the Sea. Deep down in my heart, there was a desire to visit remote islands, stay on a boat and most importantly take a dive in the turquoise ocean. Also, to experience the first-class treatment like in blockbuster-Titanic! I can barely swim and have a huge fear of water but still wanted to go see the underwater wonders. My dear husband Vinay and I  both were going to turn 50 this year and while thinking about how to celebrate our golden year, suddenly we thought of Lakshadweep where my in-laws had been roughly a decade ago.

Hundred thousand islands

Lakshadweep is an archipelago southwest of India, at about 200 to 440 km from Kochin in Kerala. The name literally means laksha (a hundred thousand) dweepa(islands) in Sanskrit. There is only a government-operated cruise ship that takes passengers and tourists during the non-monsoon season from the end of October to May. I was lucky to get two seats for Samudram package for the ship that was going to depart on my birthday. The booking process was very smooth and no agent was involved.  We deposited the money and got an acknowledgment within minutes!

We reached the coastal town Kochin the evening before by a train to Ernakulum. It was very hot and humid. From Ernakulum station we got an auto to our hotel in Thopumpady area near Fort Kochi. The next morning (Saturday), we went to the Lakshadweep wharf at 9 am. The tourists and passengers had already gathered. There were army officers, bankers from nationalized banks and other government officials with their families. This was a great opportunity for them to enjoy a vacation with their loved ones. An interesting group of around 15 senior ladies from Mumbai was also there! Some of them had knee pain, arthritis but were very excited to embark on the ship. There were a few young honeymooners with very young brides with red mehndi and bangles.  Surprisingly, this category was very small and senior citizens were more in number! Youngsters these days want to go abroad for a honeymoon rather than going for a destination in India.

Embarking the Mighty MV Kavaratti

In an hour, we were taken to a spot by bus where she was waiting – the mighty MV Kavaratti! Painted in white and navy blue, it appeared huge, about 120 meters long and 6 decks tall with the topmost level having two open decks. We boarded with our sacks to the 3^rd deck. There were porters to help out people who needed help. We were greeted by Basheer- our Welfare officer and we went to our cabin on the 4^th level. It was a cozy room with a window that opened on the starboard side with two bunk beds with clean linens, blankets, and pillows.  There was a study table, a wardrobe and most importantly a washroom with a shower! 20-liter can of drinking water was there. We were happy, that we were not going to buy bottled water! The air-conditioning was on and it felt nice after sweating in the sultry weather outside. There was a small shop next to our cabin which was selling tea, biscuits, and toiletries. The canteen and the recreation room were on our floor. The boarding continued for quite some time. We were served lunch and at 2.30 pm we departed. I communicated to my folks that the network may not be there for the next four days.  There were around 180 tourists and about 400 passengers. The passengers were carrying home interesting items such as a 32-inch television, furniture, big suitcases, bicycles among other stuff. They had to do a lot of work to carry these items to the islands. In spite of that, the islands had so many things. Electricity was being generated using diesel. In some places, there were solar panels.

Our cozy cabin

Passengers going home with luggage

The trail behind

The fear of the unknown struck me as the ship continued into high seas. This year, there were two occasions when I was beyond the network. In August, I went to the valley of flowers and Hemkuntsahib (14500 ft). That was a strenuous, high altitude trek and I was feeling very lonely as I could not communicate with the family for three consecutive days. The mind feels up with worries about what-if scenarios such as “I die” or “something happens to people back home”. Such thoughts keep bugging me even when there are beautiful sights around! I know that no one will miss me much but still, I think about it. Another fear was of sea-sickness and another was about going deep in the water. I had experienced snorkeling Malvan and had always cherished the memory of deep blue sea at noon that had colorful fish.  However, whether I will be able to take the pressure of 5-meter water or whether I will be able to breathe through my mouth. The thoughts kept bugging me.

At Minicoy

In the evening Basheer gathered us in the recreation hall and explained the 4-day program with the evacuation procedures. It was quite a detailed description of what we were going to do and rules and regulations. They explained how to wear life-jackets, how to jump from ship to a small boat and back and also how to blow a whistle like Rose (Titanic fame) if the situation arises! The view of the sunset from the deck was breathtaking. For the next 3 evenings, we would climb up to the deck every dawn, dusk and night to just look at the ocean and the sky. The night sky disappointed me as the ship had too many bright lights and I could barely see the constellations. However, it was enough to understand the directions that we were heading. The white trail left behind in the water by ship was looking beautiful from the top deck. Surprisingly, I did not have any signs of sea-sickness. We were going to visit three islands namely Minicoy, Kalpeni and Kavaratti-the capital of Lakshadweep. Each day, after morning we were supposed to disembark after breakfast and return to the ship before sunset.  I was very excited to witness everything that was ahead!

Women’s Island - Minicoy

On Sunday morning, after cruising for around 12 hours, a lush green island was visible. I could imagine the happiness Columbus would have had when he reached the new worlds. From the deck, we could see passengers getting ready to reach their homes on the Minicoy island- the largest of the islands which were also closer to the Maldives. The population of Minicoy is around 11000. The locals have a very simple lifestyle. Each family has members working on the ships or in the gulf. The ancient name of Minicoy is Maliku which literally means Women’s island. I am not sure why it is called so! I could not converse with local ladies at Folserry village which we visited that afternoon but the local delicacies and tea that they served were really nice. We first climbed up the lighthouse at Minicoy. From the top, the view was breathtaking, blue ocean, green plantations, and bright blue sky. At all the islands, there were bathrooms for shower and toilets. They also provided clean towels. At Minicoy, kayaking was complimentary. It was a two-person kayak. I was supposed to sit in front and Vinay at the back. The blue lagoon wasn’t very deep and we good towards a red flag posted to indicate that we should be turning back. I learned to paddle my own canoe on day 1 of the trip! After kayaking, we played in the water and had great food at the resort. The water was very clear and we could see the bottom of the lagoon.

From the top of the light house

A boat used for racing

Mermaid wonders- What is the color of water?

Lucky Dive in Laccadive

On Monday morning, we went to Kalpeni island. It was even more beautiful as compared to Minicoy. Here I gathered the courage to pay for SCUBA (Self-Contained Underwater Breathing Apparatus) diving which not covered in the package. Soon after shelling out ₹4000 for both of us, the weather took a turn! I had changed into a swimsuit and it started pouring. For a moment, I felt if the weather might remain like that the whole day and there was no point going for diving. But in half an hour, the rain stopped.

The trainers took us to a shallow lagoon and we practiced breathing underwater with the air tanks. We were told that the 👍sign was to go up in case there is any problem and to indicate that all is fine we were supposed to use the 👌 sign. It took me some time to internalize this as we use the thumbs-up sign to indicate that we are fine. You can see in the video that I am holding my hands in this mudra throughout because I was so thrilled by the view and even by mistake, I didn’t want the trainer to take me up before my time.  The rain did a miracle for us because the ride to the middle of the sea in an open boat was pleasant as some of the clouds were drifting across the blue skies. By the time we were at the diving location, a mild sun showed up. It was a perfect light for diving because we could see through the pale turquoise water. There were around 8 of us and while going down the trainer would control the SCUBA and take care at all the time.  One of the divers was shooting the video which is a precious memory that I will cherish all my life!

Our diving photos (video can be seen here!) )

The trainer put some bread crumbs to invite fish. I hate to see processed food being thrown in such clear water, but it was lovely to see the fish that came surrounding us. This was my only complaint about the whole experience. One trainer said that the fish don’t really eat bread but they come when they see and some action. The colors of the coral reefs were stunning and there were innumerable varieties of polyps, mollusks, sponges, sea cucumbers, sea anemone. To me, it was impossible to remember the varieties of species I saw in those few minutes. It was like entering a surreal world that I had seen only in National Geographic videos. Scientists report that the coral reefs around the world are dying but what I saw was a live play of thousands of brightly colored species.  It made me very humble. Later, we also did some snorkeling in shallow water. I was cursing my self because the trainer made us wade through water and we may have trampled some organisms. The corals were pointed at some places and wearing sandals was necessary.  Kalpeni island fulfilled my dream of diving like a mermaid. My heart was filled with immense joy that is tough to put in words. In the afternoon, there was a dance show by local men on some Hindi songs. They were quite agile in their movements.

Capital Kavaratti

On the third day, we visited Kavaratti island which is the capital of Lakshadweep. It was more touristy as compared to the other islands and the drivers were a bit rash. The highlight of this day was the glass bottom boat ride. We could see the coral reefs through the bottom of the boat. That was too good! The museum had maintained the samples of marine creatures and shells and the aquarium was also maintained well. School children were in action in a nearby building. There was a cultural show choreographed by local young women and schoolgirls dressed in colorful clothes. The number of resorts on these islands is very limited. On our ship, there was no alcohol being served. That was the best thing to do because it maintained peace and people were sober!

People ask me, how long did it take to go to the islands? Honestly, I do not know the travel time because the ship would travel in the night and reach near an island by morning. I enjoyed the changing colors of sky and water. Near Kochin, the water was murky and brown, then it turned deep blue and as we approached islands it would become turquoise and glassy! Hats off to Sir C V Raman who got intrigued by the color and researched it. For the first time, I realized that the journey was as interesting as the destination. This trip was truly a memorable one.  It helped me come over the fear of death. I enjoyed the pristine beauty of the sea, swam like a mermaid and fulfilled my long-held dream of diving in Laccadive!

N.B. Please, carry a cup for tea/coffee that you can wash and re-use. Also, do not use a straw for tender coconut. During this visit, I mastered the technique of drinking directly from the coconut without spilling a drop!