Gauri Dabholkar's reflections

Dharamshala to Dhauladhar Mountains: Triund and Laka Glacier (Part 3)

Bhagsu Nag or Bhagsu Nath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva is located near the Bhagsu Nag falls at the foot of Dhauladhar range. The local legend is about demon King Bhagsu bringing down water from a mystical Nag Dal Lake at a height of 18000 ft when there was a severe drought in his Ajmer empire. King Bhagsu assured his subjects and left on an expedition in search of water. The king himself was a fiend so he knew all kinds of sorcery and tricks. He filled his jar with the water at Nag Dal which is considered to be a bottomless lake. Bhagsu returned with his jar and was resting at the present location of the falls. The Nagas (cobra) realised that their lake was empty as Bhagsu had taken away the water. They came down charging on Bhagsu who was resting. There was a war between the Naga and Bhagsu. In the battle between them, water fell off at this place from the pot and Nag Dal got filled with water. The demon Bhagsu apologised Naga Devata Shiva for stealing water and requested him to give water for people. Shiva was pleased with the dedication of Bhagsu and ensured several streams from Dhauladhar would reach the villages. Bhagsu died but the water fall has been flowing for time immemorial.

After paying tribute to Bhagasu Nag, we went to Manu Adventures office. Due to a death in the family the previous day, our customised trek started a bit late, at around 10 AM. Though, the owner Manu was unable to meet us, a young chap Manu Raghuvanshi accompanied us to our base camp at Leta Devi. It was an easy climb a distance of about 2.5 hours through woods. It was the first time, I hiked with my luggage.

During my earlier treks, I had sent my bag pack on a mule. Although, I had kept some stuff back in the office of Manu Adventures the bag must have been around 4-5 kg including water bottle. In spite of cutting down as much as possible, it is very difficult to reduce the weight of the bag below 4 kg, I was ensuring that I had enough warm clothing, rain protection, medicines etc. This is one thing, that we need to work on. Though, I had packed medicines, corn flakes, dry fruits, chivda and energy bars, I forgot to pack electrolytes. Thankfully, we managed to get fresh lemonade twice and bottled one once on the way. I had purchased a walking stick at Bhagsu for ₹100 which became a companion for the next three days until I returned and got ₹50 back.

We had started from a height of about 7000 ft and reached to about 9000 ft by 1 PM. It was a bright afternoon. The campsite was a small flat patch with around 10 tents pitched in couple of rows and there were two closed toilets with water. The site had a small kitchen and another room for the helpers. A few iron benches and tables were arranged in a shade for campers to rest. We just walked around, and relaxed. The lunch was simple rajma-chawal which we gulped in no time as we were hungry.

The Leta Devi temple is maintained by a shepherd family. We met the shepherd and his sheep. He had lost his wife and had two bright sons who were being taken care off by his sister-in-law. The temple was a quaint small shrine with a large open warehouse for storing logs. There was no one around and we both sat there and admired the tingling sounds of bells and chimes.

Leta Devi

In the evening, we had our dinner with four young trekkers who were pursuing 5-year integrated MBA in IIM, Indore. They went up to Triund on the same day and slept at the same campsite and returned back the next day. Most of the trekkers were in their teens and twenties and they were mainly doing a day trip to Triund or were spending a night in the tents. Three Haryanvi girls who had come from Delhi stopped by at the Leta camp were in their final year of masters in Chemistry. They were trekking for the first time but were very smart in haggling the prices and using their charms! There were foreigners who were going higher up and were very fit. Their bags were sleek and some even carried a guitar or a ukelele! Young European girls were trekking alone. We must have been outliers in that crowd but I was happy to be managing it well. Some very fit Israeli men were trekking with their 6 or 7-year-old girls and boys. Dharamkot has an Israeli community and youngsters from Israel often like to visit Dharamshala after completing their military training and before joining a university.

With the goats

Manu made a bon fire and I took the liberty to give a small talk about stars and constellations to the fellow campers without bothering if they wanted to listen. But they seemed to be curious.

Dharamshala is famous for the HPCA stadium which is the highest venue (4780 ft above sea level) making it the highest venue for IPL cricket in India. The mountain boys who were our guides were IPL fans and some of them even managed to spend from their meagre earnings to buy the ticket for IPL. When the boys were not attending us, they were watching matches or films on their phone, drunk and partied. Although, starting a trek early was our priority, it was difficult to ensure that they slept early and woke up early.

On the second day, we were ready by around 6.30 AM but there was no sign of our guide waking up. Once, he was up we had a quick breakfast of eggs-bread and left at around 7.45 AM. By then, the sun was up and we were also above the tree line. When we reached Triund it was extremely bright and tiring. From the top, Dharamshala and McLeod Ganj view was superb and more importantly, Dhauladhar range appeared quite close by!

After Triund, we had to go up and down the slopes several times. The terrain was very tiring. Manu had packed tomato-cucumber sandwiches for us. I skipped them and managed to survive on energy bars and nuts. Vinay had sandwiches but it did not go well with him. He was feeling a bit uneasy in the last leg. My feet were also aching. At a distance, a blue shade next to snow became visible but it took another 45 minutes to reach our destination. Our tent was next to a glacier at a height of about 10600 ft. The name Laka Glacier is a variant of the name “Ilaqa “Glacier which stands for the region of the glaciers. There were multiple frozen streams on the cliff in front of us. There was a faint sound of water flowing below the frozen top and a mild wind made the sunny afternoon tolerable.

Unlike, the earlier stops of Leta and Triund there were no other trekkers here. For most of the afternoon, we were the only once barring a Marathi group who came to play in snow on the other side of the glacier. They must have come there by another route. The glacier was changing colours as the sun started going down.

In the evening, we had a simple meal of daal and rice. The temperature must have dipped considerably. We took out all our warm clothes and wore layers over layers. After, entering the tent I must have fallen asleep in minutes. At around 8.30 PM, Vinay went to the shade where our guide and his friends were partying and complained to them about the noise. He was unable to sleep due to the noise they were making. Rohit shifted us to another tent a few metres above their shade. I was half asleep when the shift happened. After that, I slept of so tight that I did not even get up to pee. Vinay was trying to tell me to look at the beautiful sky but I had no energy to get out of the sleeping bag. When we woke up the next morning at 5.30 AM, the sky was already bright. We managed to finish our ablutions in the bitter cold and packed up. Again, we had to wake up our guide. Due to the previous day’s experience, we had planned that we won’t have a heavy breakfast. We told him to just give us tea and milk to have corn flakes. Somehow, we managed to leave the campsite by 7 AM which should have been at least an hour earlier.

The early part of the trek was quite good as we were fresh. As we reached Triund, it was extremely bright. There was an option to take another path which was not so steep but it was longer by 4 km. After, a careful thought we came to the conclusion that “a known devil is better than an unknown angel”. Some other trekkers were telling us to take the other route but the guide appeared to be more well versed with the path view Leta devi and we too had been that way the previous day so we decided to take the same path.

My legs were trembling on the downhills and throat was getting parched. I kept focusing on the steps and reciting Tara mantra-Om Tare Tuttare Ture Svaha. I was carefully treading the path with the help of the stick. There were several bright spots of the treks such as I carrying my luggage and not falling over or hurting, not having any altitude sickness, no upset stomach or vomiting. So many things could have gone wrong but they didn’t!

Somehow, we reached Bhagsu falls and Vinay just sat down near the "Café End of the World". I too removed my shoes and socks. I did not have the energy to go down to the water falls which we had just crossed and had climbed up the steps. But a stream of Bhagsu Nag falls came to me from an overflowing tank and I held my feet under it. Also splashed water on my face. There was something indeed ethereal about that icecold water! I gathered some energy, encouraged Vinay to walk for another 20-25 minutes till Bhagsu bas stand where we found an auto to McLeod Ganj Bed and breakfast hotel.

Although, it was supposed to a medium level trek for us it was not an easy one. The entire body was sore but heart was filled with joy! The beautiful scenes of the trek are still alive in my mind. There were hardships but the experience will remain etched in the mind for years to come.

Thanks to Manu Raghuvanshi, Rohit, Sahil and the rest of team of Manu Adventures!

A short video on the trek

Laka Glacier video

Dharamshala to Dhauladhar Mountains: In the heavens (Part-2)

Continued from Call of the mountains

Walk to Naddi point

The next morning, we woke up quite early and walked up towards Naddi point to witness the sunrise over snow cladded peaks. Quite unlike the typical picture of sun peeping out from the mountains that I drew in my childhood the sunrays were shining different parts of the valley very early. When the sun actually came above the peaks, it was quite bright and not orange. The peaks were glistening silvery bright. On the way to our hotel, I visited Durgeśwar temple and Cintāpurṇi mātā temple which did not have any visitors as it was rather early. These were fairly modern temples.

Sun coming up the cliff

Glimpses of Dhauladhar mountain range

The Dal Lake had very little water but it was surrounded by lush green deodars. After walking on the winding streets for about an hour, we returned to Redeem homestay. It was still too early to have breakfast so we decided to pack our day bags and to explore McLeod Ganj. We hired a cab to McLeod Ganj square. Even there, things were just opening but a beautiful temple seemed to have some movement of devotees. It was the Kalachakra (Wheel of time) temple on the market road. The paintings were very colourful and the large prayer wheel very beautiful. The monks were reciting prayers in a very peaceful tone. There was a winding staircase that led to two storeys above and the central large image of Buddha was decorated beautifully in exquisite colours.

Kalachakra temple

Inside Kalchackra Temple

We wanted to explore some monasteries however, the google maps were not showing the correct path. We decided to follow a route that was likely to reach Tushita Meditation Center. It was about a kilometre long walk but the slope made it a bit difficult given my injured small toe and walking around since morning. I had stumbled upon the foot of a table at home just a few days before our trip. It gave me excruciating pain at times when the sock rubbed against it. We had planned a trek the next day so this kind of acclimatization was essential. Determined to reach the Tuśita Heaven I was just trying to enjoy the beautiful road. Somewhere, I saw the name of the road on a sign as “Swarg Ashram Road”. I felt convinced that I was on the right path. According to Mahāyāna tradition, Tuśita heaven is the place where all the divine Bodhisattvas reside and it is reachable by meditation. The road was leading towards Hyatt Regency but I could not see any signs of Tuśita. Finally, a driver pointed towards a gate without a gatekeeper. We entered the gate and closed it back. There were steps leading upwards through woods. The place was very quiet. There was a young couple at a small shrine on the way who appeared to be just like us. We kept going up until we came to a large meditation hall. It was full of people meditating. We sat on a bench and closed our eyes for a few minutes. I felt very calm in spite of my aching toe and was experiencing the ethereal beauty of the location with closed eyes. We didn’t feel like getting up but as we had not registered for the course, we swiftly left the place.

Tushita Meditation Center

Later we went searching for the office of Manu Adventures via Dharamkot road but it was a bit too far and the day was getting too hot. We walked down to McLeod Ganj square by another route and had a meal. The square had a big traffic jam and we decided to walk up 4 km to Redeem homestay. It was a bold decision but I took it as a challenge to prepare for the next day. The road had shade due to coniferous trees and there was a spot for filling up ice cold water in our water bottles so it was not a tough walk! By the time we reached back, we had walked around 17 km that day. I felt somewhat confident that I could manage the trek next day.

In the evening, we just relaxed in the hotel and sat on patio looking at the valley, thinking about the trek challenge!

Read ahead: Trek to Laka Glacier

Dharamshala to Dhauladhar Mountains: Call of the mountains (Part-1)

On a bright afternoon in May 2023, our car started taking hairpin turns on streets lined up with tall, green deodars. In the last decade, I had the opportunities to visit Ladakh, Pindari Glacier, Kashmir, Kalap, Valley of flowers, Hemkund Sahib but had not gone to the north in the last four years due to the pandemic. Here was Gauri visiting her mighty father Himavat after a hiatus!*

This trip was planned by two of us which meant every detail of hotel, ticket, and food to be thought off! That itself can take up one’s energy. Thanks to various websites and information on the internet that made the job easier. We reached Redeem Homestay around noon. It was a multi-storeyed house of a Tibetan migrant who had worked and studied in Bangalore. We connected quickly with him due to his Bangalore connection. The room had a 300^oview of valleys and mountains. There was a small kitchenette with electric kettle, induction and microwave!

After a hearty meal of Tibetan noodle soup- thukpa we set out to see McLeod Ganj or Upper Dharamshala. Named after Sir Donald McLeod (Lieutenant Governor of Punjab) who played a role in its establishment in the 19^th century. McLeod died in a tragic train accident in 1872 in United Kingdom. There are at least two interesting paintings that depict McLeod’s connection with Sikhs in India and in Britain. Once a sleepy little mofussil, McLeod Ganj has now become a sought-after destination by visitors from Delhi, Chandigarh as well as foreigners. One can see young women travelling alone or with friends just to experience the mountains and some of them come to study Yoga or Meditation. In all, McLeod Ganj square was a melting pot of cultures.

Snow capped peaks show up

The Namgyal Monastery was moved to McLeod Ganj in 1959 after the failure of revolt by Tibetan people in Lhasa. Today, Namgyal Monastery is commonly known the Dalai Lama Temple is a temple that has the restored idols of Avalokiteśvara, Tārā and a 9 ft tall Buddha Śakyamuni in the central hall. The idol is over nine feet high from the lotus seat and is made up of gilded bronze. It is made as per the lineal measurements given in the texts.

Dalai Lama, Tenzin Gyatso, is the 14th in this line of succession. He has served as a spiritual teacher to hundreds of thousands of Tibetan Buddhists, but he has also guided the Tibetan people as a political leader through the terrible times of the communist invasion and occupation of Tibet, and through their journey into life in exile.

Buddha Śakyamuni

In 1966, the image of Avalokiteśvara was disfigured and broken during the cultural devastation. This image had evolved from 7^th century – from the time of King Songtesen Gampo and it was considered very sacred by the Tibetans. Songtesen Gampo supposed to have patronised Buddhism in Tibet. He had two wives - Princess Wencheng from China and Bhrikuti from Licchavi clan in Nepal. Both of them are considered to be physical manifestations of Godess Tārā and the king himself is considered to be manifestation of Avalokiteśvara.

Tibetan people somehow managed to move out parts of the Avalokiteśvara image out of Tibet. The temple was built in 1969 and it now has permanent presence of Śakyamuni Buddha, Avalokiteśvara and Padma Sambhava.

Guru Padmasambhava

Guru Padma Sambhava came to Tibet from India in 8th Century. He is also called as Guru Rinpoche who introduced tantrik Buddhism in Tibet. The idol measures 12 feet from the lotus seat and is made up of gilded bronze polished with gold. Located in the west side of the temple, these images face towards Tibet.

Green Tara

Bodhisattva-Tārā with 21 images in the back

Adoration of female power was introduced in Buddhism through the images of female Bodhisattva-Tārā in the seventh century. She is the power of Avalokiteśvara. She helps to cross the ocean of existence. In a beautiful wooden and glass case, there were 21 Tārā images which depicted various qualities such as swiftness, victory, wisdom, melodiousness, terror etc. She helps for the development of bodhichitta. There were several beautiful thangka paintings all over.

Bhaisajya - Buddha with medicine bowl

After visiting the temple we went to Tibetan official area which was around 2 km from the temple. There we saw the Tibetan library and museum where several manuscripts were kept. A large manuscript of Ashtang Sahasrika Prajna Paramita was kept in a large box. It was dated to 12-13^th century CE. There was a biography of Padma Sambhava written in the 16^th century by Rinchen dpal in Tibetan UChen script with 458 folios.(peepultree) It is noteworthy that the Tibetans have been through so much torture but have managed to preserve the important manuscripts.

We did not have much time in the library as it was about to close but that day there was a book exhibition and also a sale of food. We had a slice of banana bread and refreshing Tibetan butter tea. Tasting butter tea was on my wishlist for a while. I had not tasted it in Ladakh due to an apprehension that it may not suit me while traveling on the winding roads. However, here we both loved the salty, buttery taste! We promised each other to prepare it after reaching home but it is yet to happen. After getting energised with butter tea, we trekked uphill via a path going through woods to reach the Mcleod ganj square where we could get an auto to Redeem Homestay.